Honey bees are helpful because they pollinate plants and bring us honey, but they can also be very annoying at times. If bees build a hive in your home, they can be a problem because people are more likely to get stung. Trash bins and recycling centers may also encourage robbing honey bees.
Honey bees typically search for flowers containing nectar and pollen for food. But they are very smart and will look for syrups, sugar, fruit juices, and other sweet things that are easy to get when flowers aren’t around.
Robber honey bees and wasps can be very annoying in the summer and fall, when there aren’t as many flowers. They like to hang out around trash cans and recycling centers for aluminum cans. Proper sanitation is the key to control of these problems.
To keep honey bees away, areas where syrup or other sugars are often spilled or build up should be cleaned up often. The use of plastic can liners and lids for trashcans will discourage honey bees. Barriers like windows and door screens or bin lids should be put up in places like aluminum can recycling centers where it might not be possible to keep clean. A larger number of bees can be brought in quickly after a few find a sugar source that is easy to get to.
In the fall, bees and wasps can be a pain in gardens and orchards because they eat broken, dropped, or overripe fruit. Fruit drops, bird‑damaged fruit and overripe fruit should be collected regularly and discarded.
Sometimes, a strong honey bee colony will split into several smaller colonies, and one or more swarms will leave the hive. While scout bees look for a good place to make a new home, a swarm may gather for a while on an open tree branch or bush near the old hive.
Some homeowners become concerned about these swarms of bees they find clustering on trees in their yards. Swarming bees usually are not aggressive and are not likely to sting unless disturbed. Most bee swarms find a place to live within a day, and the group will leave the tree limb on its own. Occasionally a small number of bees are left behind on the limb. They will not survive on their own and will die within a few days. Swarms of this type are often sought by beekeepers.
Scout bees usually choose a hollow tree, but sometimes they choose the spaces between walls of homes or buildings to make their nests. The bees may nest in the wall or attic some distance from where they enter the wall. The nest is the comb on which the bees rest, rear brood and store honey.
Colonies of bees that set up shop in attics or wall voids of nearby homes can be very annoying. When bees make their homes for good, they can become very defensive and are much more likely to sting than swarms. Salvaging colonies from wall voids may not be practical, but in some situations it may be possible. Many homeowners are looking for ways to save honey bee colonies because they are worried about Colony Collapse Disorder and the general drop in honey bee colony numbers.
A person may be able to get a list of local beekeepers who are willing to remove bees from buildings by calling the county extension office or even the fire station. Make sure you and the person who is removing the bees agree on what needs to be done for cleanup and repairs after the removal.
In situations where the colony cannot be removed by a beekeeper, exterminating procedures are recommended. It is always best to remove or destroy bees enhived too close to human activity.
If you are used to getting rid of bugs and don’t get stung easily, you should still take care to keep yourself safe. Distracting stings when exterminating bees in precarious positions may result in a fall from a ladder or roof. Minimum protection should include at least wearing a beekeepers veil and leather gloves. It is also a good idea to wear coveralls in a light color with strong rubber bands around the wrists and legs. A bee smoker will help enormously to calm the bees and lessen their tendency to sting.
Ficam dust is the only insecticide registered to exterminate bees from dwellings. If it is not applied correctly, persistent efforts may be needed to finally accomplish the job. Ficam that is dusted into the bee entrance might not reach the nest, which is sometimes a long way from the entrance. The queen and house bees (bees that stay at home to care for brood, etc.) will not be killed, but foraging bees that pass through the dusted area will. ) may continue to live for some time. If the insecticide treatment isn’t repeated, the colony may not get better until the house bees (young bees that stay in the hive) are old enough to do work in the field. Quicker and safer results will be received if the nest itself is treated.
Sometimes you can find the nest by hitting the wall with a hammer and listening for the bees to buzz back. Once the nest is found, a hole can be made in the wall, preferably through the outside, so that the insecticide can be put on the nest. Swarms are more easily killed soon after they enter the building. Established swarms are best killed in late winter when their numbers are low. The best time to use the bug spray is late in the afternoon, when all the bees are home. The bees will be less cross on nice days than when the weather is over‑cast or rainy. Do not cover the hole right away after dusting the nest, as this could bring angry bees into the living area of the house.
After the bees are killed, the nest should be taken down if it can be done without doing a lot of damage to the building. Remove and discard the comb and honey. Do not salvage these materials if the colony was treated with insecticide. If the nest isn’t taken down, the wax could melt or get wax moth larvae all over it, letting honey leak out. If there is much honey it can seep through interior walls, leaving a permanent stain. Bees from other colonies can also be a bother around the house as long as there is honey left over from a colony that was killed. Other scavenging insects, such as carpet beetles, are also attracted to killed bee colonies.
Once you’ve taken down a dead colony and fixed any damage to the structure that it caused, block off all the entrances that other bee swarms can use. Older homes which may have cracks in walls or under eaves are likely candidates for honeybee invasion. Before bees start to swarm, these holes should be covered or plugged to stop them from becoming colonies. Odors left by the colony can linger for a long time and attract other swarming bees.
WARNING: The pesticide suggestions in this book can only be used in Kentucky, USA. Some products may not be legal to use in your state or country. Please check with your local county agent or regulatory official before using any pesticide mentioned in this publication.
Dealing with bees that have nested on your property can be frustrating and even dangerous Using the right insecticide is an effective way to get rid of bee populations while also protecting yourself. But with so many options on the market, how do you choose an insecticide that’s safe and effective for bee removal? This guide covers what to look for when selecting bee insecticides
Understanding Bee Behavior
Before using any insecticide, it’s helpful to understand some bee basics. There are over 20,000 species of bees worldwide. Common ones like honeybees bumblebees carpenter bees and ground bees exhibit slightly different behaviors
-
Honeybees live in hives with 40,000-60,000 workers and build wax combs and honey pots. They can sting repeatedly.
-
Bumblebees nest in small colonies underground and in grass. They are not aggressive but females can sting.
-
Carpenter bees drill holes in wood to nest. Males are harmless but females have stingers.
-
Ground bees nest in lawns or bare patches of soil. They are mildly aggressive and females can sting.
Familiarizing yourself with the type of bee you want to remove will help guide insecticide selection.
Active Ingredients to Target Bees
Most insecticides formulated for bee removal contain these active ingredients:
-
Pyrethrins – Natural extracts from chrysanthemum flowers that act as neurotoxins. Often paired with piperonyl butoxide.
-
Permethrin – Synthetic version of pyrethrins. Long-lasting and stable in sunlight. Toxic to bees.
-
Tetramethrin – Another synthetic pyrethroid that’s effective on bees. Often used with phenothrin.
-
Phenothrin – A pyrethroid that kills bees upon contact. Works quickly but has short residual action.
-
D-limonene – Extracted from citrus peels. Kills bees through suffocation and acts as a repellent.
Opt for permethrins or tetramethrins for longer-lasting insecticides. Natural pyrethrins provide shorter control.
Formulations: Sprays, Dusts, Foams
Insecticides for bees come in various formulations:
-
Sprays – Concentrated liquids that must directly contact bees. Offer quick control.
-
Dusts – Powders that stick to bee bodies. Require less precision than sprays.
-
Foams – Expand to fill cavities and suffocate bees inside nests. Effective for ground bees.
-
Granules – Pellets designed to be sprinkled around bee nests. Provide residual control.
Sprays allow targeted bee killing. Foams and dusts are preferable for hard-to-reach nests. Granules provide perimeter protection.
5 Key Factors When Choosing a Bee Insecticide
Keep these factors in mind when selecting an insecticide for bee removal:
-
Target bee species – Certain products are tailored for honeybees, wasps, yellowjackets or other species.
-
Nest location – Sprays, foams or dusts that can penetrate nest cracks and crevices.
-
Residual activity – Longer-lasting permethrin, tetramethrin versus short-term pyrethrins.
-
Application method – Sprays for precision; foams and dusts for difficult access points.
-
Environmental impact – Some products are eco-friendly or made from essential oils.
Consult product labels to ensure suitability for eliminating your specific bee type and nest location.
5 Recommended Bee Removal Insecticides
Here are some top-rated insecticides to consider for getting rid of bee populations:
1. Spectracide Wasp & Hornet Killer
- Made for wasps, yellowjackets and bees
- Foaming spray reaches nests up to 20 feet high
- Tetramethrin and phenothrin kill on contact
- Can be used indoors or outdoors
2. EcoSMART Organic Bee & Wasp Killer
- Plant-based active ingredients like peppermint oil
- Designed to kill and repel bees, wasps and hornets
- Non-toxic, safe for use around kids and pets
- Works without dangerous chemicals
3. Hot Shot Wasp & Hornet Spray
- Foaming jet spray provides 27-foot reach
- Permethrin kills hornets, wasps and yellowjackets
- Dielectric breakdown voltage makes it safe around live wires
- Also effective against beetles, ants and spiders
4. Spectracide Wasp & Hornet Foam
- Designed to kill ground-nesting bees and wasps
- Foam expands to penetrate underground nests
- Drift-free application minimizes product waste
- Kills on contact without residual toxicity
5. TERRO T2302 SR Sleeve Wasp & Hornet Killer
- Powder insecticide injected straight into nests
- Blows 15 grams of fast-acting deltamethrin dust
- Kills wasps, hornets and yellowjackets
- Keeps applicator 20 feet away from the nest
Safe Usage Tips for Bee Insecticides
When using liquid, dust or foam insecticides for bee removal, keep these safety guidelines in mind:
-
Follow all label directions carefully and completely
-
Wear protective gear like gloves, goggles and a respirator or mask
-
Avoid inhaling dusts or mists from insecticide applications
-
Apply at night when bees are less active and in their nests
-
Never spray directly into nest entrances to prevent attacks
-
Work slowly to minimize provoking defensive bee swarms
-
Keep pets and children away during application and until dry
-
Clean up any unused product properly to avoid contamination
With the right insecticide and smart usage precautions, you can effectively eliminate nuisance bee populations on your property. Reference this guide to choose a bee removal product that fits your specific needs.
How To Make Bees Go Away Without Killing Them??
FAQ
What is the best insecticide for killing bees?
What can be sprayed to keep bees away?
What is the quickest way to get rid of bees?
What is the best time to spray for bees?
How do you get rid of bees?
One way to get rid of bees is to block access to their nesting holes. If a homeowner has any spare bricks or large rocks on hand, they can place them over the holes to keep the bees from going back inside their nests and laying more eggs. This method also keeps current miner bees that are inside the nest from reaching the surface.
How do I remove a bee stinger?
Using a piece of gauze, your fingernail, or another instrument, you may scrape across the stinger to dislodge it from your skin. It is also possible to remove the stinger using tweezers or your fingernail. Acting soon is crucial.
Does spray kill bees?
The spray comes out as a foam that can sink into ground tunnels and hives, killing bees in contact. One of the benefits of this product is that it comes with an extension tube to reach deeper into ground bee tunnels. The spray and foam do not hurt grass or shrubs and should also work on wasps and yellow jackets.
How do you kill a bee hive?
It’s time to remove your first beehive. Spray the insecticide on the beehive. Do this in the late afternoon or early morning as indicated above. Repeat the application several times in order to kill all the remaining bees in the hive. Remove and destroy the beehive to prevent foraging bees from neighboring colonies from moving in.
Can I use a bee killer for carpenter bees?
If you’re looking for an environmentally-safe solution to dealing with bees, wasps, and hornets, then this may be the one for you. While it may not be the fastest or most potent bee killer, it is one of the most convenient to use. And, even if used outdoors, it will provide some residual control. I do not recommend it for targeting carpenter bees.
How do I remove bee colonies?
When removing bee colonies, the approach depends on factors like nest size, location, and bee type. That’s why consulting with a professional like Terminix for bee control solutions is crucial. Removing bees without the proper training and equipment can be risky and lead to painful stings.