The crested gecko Harlequin morph crested gecko

Crested geckos (“cresties”) are one of the most popular pet lizards, due to their gentle nature, impressive features, and availability in many stunning colours. They originate in the rainforests of New Caledonia (islands between Australia and New Zealand), and this is the environment that we try to replicate when keeping them. As hatchlings, they are about 6.5 cm (2.5 inches) long. As adults, they normally grow to a little over 20 cm (8 inches), taking around 18 months to obtain that size. They should normally live for 15 to 20 years.

Crested geckos rarely bite, even if frightened or hurt. If they do bite, the bite from a hatchling usually causes no pain at all, and feels only like a gentle pinch. A bite from an adult feels like a pinch. It is normal for keepers never to experience a bite from a crested gecko.

Crested geckos are arboreal, living high in the trees. They have sticky foot pads and a sticky tail, which allow them to walk upside down on smooth glass. They are nocturnal, and spend most of the day sleeping in the leaves. They usually become active shortly after their lights go out. They can change their colours throughout the day, depending on their mood, and usually show their best colours when they are most active at night. They do not change colour as camouflage.

Gargoyle geckos are somewhat less popular lizards, but their features and behaviour are almost identical to crested geckos, though the head is shaped differently (supposedly similar to architectural gargoyles, rather than having the eyebrow crest). Their colours and patterns can be much more elaborate than those of a crested gecko. They are from the same islands as the crested gecko, growing about 2.5 cm (1 inch) longer as adults, but weighing about twice as much. They are somewhat worse at climbing due to their extra weight, and they can struggle to climb smooth glass.

A lizards enclosure is its home. The place where it is happy to spend its time, and the place it feels safest. Crested geckos and gargoyle geckos are generally happiest when kept in an appropriately sized and furnished enclosure. The same sized enclosure may be used for a hatchling or an adult, as long as the correct initial size is selected. The enclosure needs to be well ventilated, with wire mesh at the top. Crested geckos and gargoyle geckos may locate openings in their enclosures, and can escape if their enclosures are not properly closed, or have gaps that the lizard can squeeze through. Escaped lizards can live for several months or even years, hiding in a house or a garden, but can be difficult to find, so try not to let it happen in the first place. When startled, they may run or jump towards their door; be careful not to trap toes and tails in the door or hinge.

An appropriate sized enclosure for a single crested gecko is about 30 cm (1 foot) long, 30 cm (1 foot) wide, and 45 cm (1.5 feet) high. The height is more important than the floor space. The enclosure must be made out of a waterproof material, typically all glass. Examples include the Exo Terra Mini Tall Terrarium. Gargoyle geckos would prefer a little more space, about 45 cm (1 foot) long, 45 cm (1 foot) wide, and 45 cm (1.5 feet) high for a single gecko. Examples include the Exo Terra Small Wide Terrarium.

The enclosure needs to have an unscented substrate (bedding) on the bottom that is designed for retaining humidity, allows digging, and resists mould. Coconut fibre bedding is the only good option, and should be about 2.5 to 5 cm (1 to 2 inches) deep. Aspen, hemp, lignocell, beech chips and sand are not suitable. Bark chips, cypress mulch and old newspaper retain humidity, but do not allow the gecko to dig.

Crested geckos and gargoyle geckos need relatively low temperatures, similar to household temperatures. Ideally, the vivarium should reach between 21°C (70°F) and 26°C (79°F) during the day. As the house temperature rises and falls, it will create a natural heating cycle in the enclosure as well. In winter, or all year in cold houses, supplemental heat may be needed. The best approach is to use a low powered heat mat stuck to the outside of the wall (not the floor) on one side of the enclosure, using brown packaging tape stuck over the edges to hold it in place if it is not a self-adhesive type. Heat mats must not be placed inside the enclosure as they will get wet and produce electrical faults. The lizards should not have to dig to get warm, so the heat mat must never be placed under the floor of the enclosure. Examples include the Habistat, ProRep or Lucky Reptile 3 Watt or 4 Watt heat mats. The intention is to have a warm area for the lizard to use if needed, allowing it to warm up when it needs to, and cool down when it needs to. The lizard will choose which temperature it wants to be in. Alternatively, daytime heat may be provided by a 25 to 40 Watt warming lamp (not a focused basking lamp), held in a reflector, placed a little above the mesh lid, but this means that heat cannot be provided at night; the heat mat is a better approach.

Note that heat mats, like most heaters, work by radiated heat, not by heating the air. Thermometers usually measure the air temperature, so will give a false reading. The important temperature is the one that will be reached by an object – the animal or something representing it – when it is placed near the heater for long enough to absorb the radiated heat (a number of hours). Infrared thermometers allow you to measure the temperature of the substrate, ornaments, and animal, rather than the temperature of the air. Wet substrates will appear to be colder than dry ones. Test dry surfaces when measuring temperatures.

The enclosure should contain at least 2 decorative plants for the lizard. It is best to use artificial – plastic – plants, as the lighting required to keep plants alive is different from the lighting required to keep the lizard alive. One decorative plastic plant should be placed on each wall of the enclosure, so that the lizard can choose between them (especially important if you have a heat mat behind one of them).

A water bowl should be placed on the floor. For an enclosure sized for a single crested gecko, a bowl about the size of the palm of your hand should be sufficient. A larger bowl should be used for larger enclosures, including the enclosure sized for a single gargoyle gecko. The main purpose of the bowl is to increase ambient humidity, but it also provides a drink for the gecko, if it can work out how to use it. A small food bowl may either be placed on the floor, or on an elevated platform. The food bowl should always be placed in roughly the same location, as the gecko may become confused if it is moved (even a short distance), and fail to locate it for a week or more.

Other ornaments and sanitised branches can be used in the enclosure, allowing the lizard to explore and exercise on them. Branches can be natural but must be reptile-safe and resistant to rotting. After the initial move into your first enclosure, avoid making too many changes all at once, as this can make the lizard feel insecure. Add decorations slowly, one at a time, with a few days in between for the lizard to get used to the new content.

The enclosure should not be placed in direct sunlight at any time of day. It should be placed in a quiet location rather than the living room, such as a bedroom or hallway, since the lizard will want to sleep during the day. At all times, the animal and enclosure must be kept away from smoke, fireplace and cooking fumes, aerosols, chemical/alcohol sprays, air fresheners, and any scented or fragranced products that are not safe for use with reptiles.

Like many lizards, crested geckos and gargoyle geckos need vitamin D3, which they naturally obtain from UVB light. They require it in low levels, but generally need more than can be provided in a supplement. Therefore, they require a UVB bulb. Note that some popular crested gecko enclosures are sold without this essential bulb, or the hood/fitting that holds it. It is essential equipment, and death or bone problems are common with crested geckos and gargoyle geckos that are kept without UVB lighting. If your enclosure is not supplied with an appropriate bulb and fitting, then these must be purchased separately. LED lights are not appropriate, as they cannot provide the right type or level of UVB.

The UVB lamp must be replaced every 6 or 12 months depending on the brand, even if it still appears to be functioning (human eyes cannot see when the UV output drops too far). Write the date on the bulb with a permanent marker to avoid forgetting. The UVB strength must not be too strong, or it may cause eye damage. Low strength UVB bulbs are usually best, sometimes labelled as “2%” or “5%”, normally using a compact fluorescent so that the intensity is not too high. Examples include the Exo Terra UVB100 26 Watt compact fluorescent bulb (one of the lowest strength UVB bulbs available, which must be replaced every 6 months) or the Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 Mini compact fluorescent (which must be replaced every 12 months). The bulb should be mounted above the mesh lid of the enclosure, a few cm (an inch or so) above the mesh to prevent the lizard from touching it or gettting close enough to damage its eyes. The bulb should be within 20 cm (8 inches) of one of the decorative plants inside the enclosure. There must not be any glass or plastic between the bulb and the inside of the enclosure. (Cheap fakes – household bulbs with their labels removed – have been found. Make sure you are buying a legitimate, branded bulb from a reputable retailer.)

Lighting patterns should match the sun, switching on in the morning and off in the evening, eg. 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM, with no difference between summer and winter day lengths. The lizard must spend several hours per day in the enclosure to ensure that it has gathered enough UVB (though it can cope for a few days or even weeks if it is being transported, or if the lamp has failed).

Crested geckos and gargoyle geckos need a higher humidity than the average home, rising when it rains then dropping back to 55% or 60%, like their natural environment. This cycle can be simulated by spraying the enclosure with fresh, lukewarm water once per day (but dont worry if you occasionally forget for a day or two). This should preferably be done shortly before the lights are due to be switched off, using a handheld spray bottle – one that has never contained toxic chemicals. The walls and leaves in the enclosure should be dripping – this is what the gecko drinks. The lizard must also be gently sprayed to remind them that it is raining, even though they may dislike it.

The water in the bowl should be replaced a few times per week. Weekly, or immediately if the lizard has left faeces in it, the water bowl should be cleaned with a reptile-safe disinfectant, and the water replaced. Normal disinfectants can contain dangerous toxins. As often as needed, perhaps a few times per week, the old water can be tipped into the substrate to keep it damp. The substrate must be damp below the surface, but the surface can be allowed to dry out a little. There should not be enough water for puddles to form on the surface.

Crested gecko and gargoyle gecko faeces usually appear as black or white clumps, often stuck to the walls or furnishings of the enclosure. Remove these with a damp tissue. These geckos may intentionally leave urine on the walls for scent marking, and any change (including cleaning) may cause more to appear. Perhaps once per month or so, thoroughly clean the walls and plants.

Once every six months, or whenever the substrate becomes too dirty, clean the enclosure and ornaments with a reptile-safe disinfectant, and replace the substrate.

Crested geckos or gargoyle geckos can normally live together happily in all-female groups or in mixed-sex groups with a single male and multiple females, as long as they are of similar sizes, and the same species (do not mix crested geckos and gargoyle geckos, or any other types of gecko, in the same enclosure). They may eat smaller lizards. Male and female pairs can be problematic, as the male may continually pester the female if there are no other females to distract him. If one lizard begins to bully or attack the others, they should be separated into their own enclosures. If males are included in a group which also includes juvenile females, they are likely to breed while the female is too young, causing medical problems and stunted growth. Repeated breeding from living together permanently can also cause a large amount of stress to the female, and will shorten her life. Crested gecko and gargoyle gecko sexing is possible by looking for pre-anal pores and hemipenal bulges on adult males. The pores may also be visible on juveniles (at least 5 months and 14 grams for crested geckos) using macro photography. Sexing hatchlings is not possible, and the sex should be re-checked by a specialist as the lizards mature.

For geckos that are co-habiting, a larger enclosure is needed. A 45 cm (1.5 feet) cube is enough for 3 crested geckos, and a 45 cm (1.5 feet) long, 45 cm (1.5 feet) wide and 60 cm (2 feet) high enclosure is enough for 5 crested geckos or 3 gargoyle geckos. Scent marking becomes more prominent when geckos live together, and cleaning will need to be more frequent.

If males and females are kept together, the females will normally produce pairs of fertile eggs several times per year. Crested geckos normally produce many more eggs per year than gargoyle geckos. These are normally buried and hidden, and might not be noticed. Unlike most other lizards, specialist incubation is not required, and the eggs usually hatch at room temperature. A separate enclosure is needed for the hatchlings, so that the parents cannot eat them. It can be difficult to find enough homes for the offspring, as they are quite prolific. Females may continue to lay fertile eggs for over a year after being separated from a male. Females may still lay infertile eggs even if they do not live with a male.

The lizards can chirp or squeek. When living alone or in same-sex groups, these are infrequent, reserved for when the lizard is startled or hurt. With mixed-sex groups, they become much more frequent as they are used for mating communication, and this can become quite disturbing for their owner if the lizards are kept in a bedroom.

It is best not to handle newly aquired crested geckos and gargoyle geckos for a few days, so that they can get settled in to their new home.

Carefully try to pick up the lizard by its body, giving it time to let go of anything it was holding onto. Do not grab their tail. Stroking their back may cause them to run or jump. Allow the lizard to walk and jump over your hands or clothing, for perhaps 15 minutes. Crested geckos and gargoyle geckos will frequently run and jump out of your hands, but will normally land safely. They can even glide and steer in the air (the crested geckos are much better than the gargoyle geckos at this), so they can land where they want to. Try to keep calm so that you dont step on them after they land, and try not to chase them – they usually remain still after landing or running a very short distance, giving time to calmly pick them back up.

Crested geckos and gargoyle geckos, like many geckos, may intentionally drop off their tails if they are frightened or hurt, or if their tail is grabbed. With crested geckos, the tail never grows back. With gargoyle geckos, it grows back over the course of a few months, but may not look as good as before. The lizards will quickly get lost if left to explore the room. They should not be exercised outdoors. All other pets should be kept away from the lizard, especially cats, dogs and birds.

After handling lizards (or just touching their enclosures), wash your hands, to avoid catching any illnesses from the lizards. While you are much more likely to catch illnesses like salmonella from your food, there is a small chance that you could catch these from reptile faeces.

Since crested geckos and gargoyle geckos are nocturnal, it is best to handle them after their enclosure lights have gone out rather than during the day. If more time is desired with them in the evening, alter their lighting pattern slightly so that their lights switch off a little earlier than 7:00 PM (dont push it too far, or the light in the house will confuse them).

Crested geckos naturally eat rotting fruit that they find in their natural habitat, as well as occasional insects that they find. Gargoyle geckos also eat rotting fruit that they find in their natural habitat, but also eat substantially more insects than a crested gecko. In their enclosures, both types of gecko should have a constant supply of dedicated crested gecko diet. Examples include the popular Repashy Crested Gecko Diet. Gargoyle geckos may optionally be given dedicated brands with more insect protein, such as Repashy Grubs N Fruit Gecko Diet. Their food can usually be bought from pet shops and online suppliers. Consult your local pet shops. Ideally, the diet should include supplemental levels of vitamin D3. Alternatively, it is possible to make up a balanced diet from various types of gecko-safe fruit purée (which can be bought from supermarkets) and insects (which can be bought from the same suppliers as the dedicated diets), as well as vitamins and calcium. However, these are almost never as successful as the dedicated diets.

The diet is usually purchased as a powder, and mixed at a ratio of 1:2 with water to produce a semi-liquid paste, similar to ketchup. This must be replaced with fresh paste every 2 to 3 days, or whenever it goes dry or mouldy, or has all been eaten. One teaspoon of paste is normally enough to feed an adult crested gecko for a couple of days, but it may help to make more at a time so that it does not dry out so fast.

It is normal for crested geckos and gargoyle geckos to eat nothing for a day or so, then eat the entire supply of food in a day.

Optionally with crested geckos, once per month or so, release perhaps 10 or 20 appropriately sized locusts (“small” or “2nd” for hatchlings, and “medium” or “3rd” for adults) into the enclosure, to encourage the geckos natural hunting instinct. For gargoyle geckos, this is required, and should be done more frequently, perhaps once per week or fortnight. The hard part of the locust – from the head to just behind the back legs – must be shorter than the distance between the lizards eyes. If locusts are offered too frequently, the gecko may become addicted to them, and refuse to eat any other food, but locusts are not a complete diet. Wild insects must never be used, as they can contain harmful parasites.

Crested geckos and gargoyle geckos usually shed their skin once every month or two, for the whole of their lives – this is not an indication of good or bad health. Before they shed, their colours will fade a little. When the lizard sheds its skin, it should ideally all come off and be eaten – usually the owner sees nothing, but one day the lizard appears quite grey, then a few hours later is a little brighter than before (since they can change colour intentionally, this may not be noticeable). The next day, the lizard must be carefully checked for retained skin, especially on its toes. If skin pieces are left scattered all over the vivarium, or some is still stuck to the lizard, it is having problems shedding its skin. Usually, this is caused by the owner failing to keep the enclosure damp.

If old skin is still stuck to the lizard, it will need some very careful help to remove the skin. Carefully try to pick the pieces off the lizard using fingers or very fine tweezers. Be careful not to scratch or damage the new skin, and avoid injuring their delicate toes. Lizards can find this process stressful, so try to be gentle and avoid touching their mouth while restraining them, as this may trigger a biting reflex. Seek immediate help from a specialist if you are unable to do it yourself. Crested geckos can get eye infections if the skin remains stuck to them, and can find it difficult to climb if old skin is stuck to their toes, so advice should be sought as soon as possible, preferably the same day. There are some shedding aid products available which can be sprayed onto the lizard prior to a shed, in order to assist it in this process, which may be useful for geckos that frequently have this problem.

Crested geckos and gargoyle geckos are generally very healthy, with few major problems. Like all animals, they can get ill sometimes, and may need veterinary care. A clean enclosure helps to keep lizards healthy. A constantly dirty enclosure can cause health issues. Common signs of problems include:

• Regurgitated food or skin
• Dramatic weight loss
• Frequent bad shedding, with skin pieces still stuck to the lizard
• Weak/floppy legs, kinked tail or spine, or malformed mouth (eg. unable to close)
• Gaping mouth (not when frightened) or cheese-like discharge in the mouth

On a monthly basis, or whenever you suspect they are ill, you may wish to weigh your lizards, after they have finished digesting any food that they recently ate (eg. after they produce faeces). This is known as their empty weight. This record of their weight can be very useful for a vet, if your lizard appears to be ill at any point. Dramatic weight loss (eg. 10% in 2 weeks) suggests that worming or other veterinary treatments are needed.

Lizards may avoid food for significant periods, especially during winter. Seek advice as needed.

Reptiles can be quite sensitive to non-reptile medications. Only use medications which can be safely used with reptiles, or which are prescribed by a vet. They are particularly sensitive to alcohol and solvents. Any use of treatments where alcohol is used as a solvent must be done in a well ventillated environment, not in the confined space of the animals enclosure.

Crested Gecko vs Gargoyle Gecko | Head To Head

FAQ

What is better, a gargoyle gecko or a crested gecko?

Expert Level and Temperament: Crested geckos are perfect for beginners. We also believe that Gargoyle geckos are fine for adult beginners or older children with experience keeping reptiles.

Can you keep crested geckos and gargoyle geckos together?

Sadly no, gargoyles hunt cresties in their wild habitat. They also eat their own young, so not exactly a very social species.

Do gargoyle geckos like to be held?

• Docile Nature:

  Gargoyle geckos are known for their friendly and docile nature, making them relatively easy to handle. 

• Not Necessarily Affectionate:

  While they can tolerate handling, they are not known for seeking out human interaction or cuddling. 

• Arboreal Nature:

  They are arboreal, meaning they prefer to climb and explore their environment rather than being held. 

• Individual Differences:

  Just like any pet, each gargoyle gecko has its own unique personality and temperament. Some may be more comfortable being handled than others. 

• Handling Tips:

  • Start Slowly: When first handling a new gargoyle gecko, start with short handling sessions and gradually increase the time as they become more comfortable. 

  • Gentle Handling: Always handle gargoyle geckos gently, avoiding any sudden movements or squeezing. 

  • Encourage Climbing: Instead of picking them up, allow them to climb onto your hands and arms. 

  • Hand-Feeding: Hand-feeding can be a good way to build trust and encourage socialization. 

  • Avoid Head Pats: Some gargoyle geckos may not like being touched on the head, so it’s best to avoid this. 

• Nocturnal Behavior:

  Gargoyle geckos are nocturnal, meaning they are most active at night. Handling them during the day may cause them stress. 

• Hatchlings:

  Hatchlings can be more skittish and defensive, but they generally calm down with proper handling. 

• Clumsy Climbers:

  Gargoyle geckos can be clumsy climbers and may fall off your hand, so it’s best to handle them while sitting down until you are used to handling them. 

Are gargoyle geckos high maintenance?

Gargoyle geckos are generally 6-8” long, with a 15-20 year lifespan with good care. Their general hardiness, simple care, and manageable size makes them a popular choice among first-time reptile owners. They can be relatively more expensive than other species of geckos, but do not let that deter you.

Which is better gargoyle or crested geckos?

Gargoyle Geckos are skittish and reserved, while Crested Geckos are curious and friendly. Crested Geckos are also cheaper and easier to find. Ultimately, the choice is up to you. It all depends on what you’re looking for in an amphibian pet. William is a respected pet enthusiast with expertise in reptiles and birds.

Are Gargoyle geckos good pets?

However, if you’re prepared to invest more and seek a more distinctive pet, the Gargoyle Gecko could be a rewarding choice. Both crested geckos and gargoyle geckos are easy to care for and handle, which makes them both ideal pet beginners. Crested geckos tend to be more active than gargoyle geckos.

Can a crested gecko mate with a gargoyle gecko?

However, you can keep small groups of the same species. A small group of Crested or Gargoyle Gecko females will get along well in a species-only enclosure. Don’t keep multiple males together, because they’re likely to fight and hurt each other. The Crested Gecko and Gargoyle Gecko are similar in a lot of ways.

Are Gargoyle geckos short or stout?

Gargoyle Geckos are short and stout. They also come in a variety of patterns, but there’s less color variation. Gargoyle Geckos are skittish and reserved, while Crested Geckos are curious and friendly. Crested Geckos are also cheaper and easier to find. Ultimately, the choice is up to you.

Are Gargoyle geckos good climbers?

They have a calm demeanor and are known to be great climbers thanks to their specialized toe pads. Gargoyle Geckos, on the other hand, are both arboreal and terrestrial. They are also generally calm but can exhibit a wider range of behaviors. Some are as docile as Crested Geckos, while others can be a bit more skittish.

Are crested geckos good pets?

Verdict: Both species are well-suited for a pet owner seeking a calm, easy-to-handle reptile. However, if you enjoy watching your pet climb and jump, a Crested Gecko might offer a bit more entertainment. Aggression is not typically a concern with either species. Crested Geckos and Gargoyle Geckos are both known for their docile nature.