This page contains paid links (details here) as well as links to the official ReptiFiles store. Purchases made from these links help fund my reptile welfare research and educational efforts. Thank you for your support!
Because ball pythons are crepuscular, additional light beyond what illuminates the reptile room is not widely considered “necessary.” However, it is best practice to keep a light on to mimic nature’s day/night cycle. Because of their equatorial origin, ReptiFiles recommends a day/night cycle of 12 hours on, 12 hours off. If you want to get more specific with your light cycle, you can leave the lights on for 12.5 hours during summer and 11.75 hours during winter.
The best way to provide low-level illumination for your ball python is with a low-strength UVB fluorescent as your light source. It is commonly believed that nocturnal snakes do not “need” UVB, therefore it would be a waste of money to provide it. While this reasoning may seem sound, it oversimplifies the issue. UVB does more for a reptile than help them synthesize vitamin D3; for example, did you know that ball pythons can see ultraviolet light?
Recent studies indicate that UVB can be beneficial for snakes’ long-term physical and mental health. To provide UVB for ball pythons in a 4x2x2 enclosure, use a 22″ long, low-intensity T5 HO fluorescent tube (not coil). I recommend sticking with the Zoo Med or Arcadia brand, as others are not reliable enough to be used without a Solarmeter 6.5 in hand.
To achieve a UVI of 2.0-3.0 in the basking area (closest location to the UVB lamp), you will need a specific distance between the UVB bulb and the snake’s back when basking:
The above distance recommendations assume a ~35% mesh block. It is strongly recommended to use a Solarmeter 6.5 to determine the best placement. For more details on adjusting basking distance based on mesh obstruction, see the Facebook group Reptile Lighting > Guides > Guide 1: Using T5-HO lamps above a Mesh Screen.
If you need more distance between your snake and the UVB in the basking area than your enclosure’s setup will allow, I recommend using a UVB riser/prop to strategically increase the distance for your snake’s safety.
You will need to mount your UVB bulb in a Vivarium Electronics T5 HO or Arcadia ProT5 fixture. Optimal use distance is likely to be more variable if you use something different. In addition, plan on changing your UVB bulb every 12 months. Even if it’s still producing visible light, UVB output decreases over time, so the bulb becomes less beneficial to your snake with age.
Because ball pythons are reptiles, they are cold-blooded, and that means they rely on their environment for the heat needed to regulate their metabolism. If the temperatures or humidity is off, the snake may stop eating.
Python regius is native to Africa’s tropical savanna climate zone, and according to climate data from TimeandDate.com, the average temperatures in this area between 68-86°F (20-30°C) over the course of the year, with occasional spikes up to 96°F (35°C) or higher. However, keep in mind that ball pythons spend a significant portion of their lives in burrows, where temperatures are cooler and more stable than the open air above.
Note the difference between surface temperature and air temperature. Surface temperature is measured on the basking surface (substrate, a wood branch, a flat rock, etc.), and can only be measured with an infrared temperature gun like the Etekcity 774. Air temperature can only be measured with a digital probe thermometer like the Zoo Med Digital Thermometer. Just because a surface is hot doesn’t mean that the air is hot — have you ever touched a piece of metal on a sunny day? Even if the air temperature is mild, the surface temperature of the metal can get quite hot.
If your home gets cooler than 70°F / 21°C at night, you will need a lightless heat source to warm up the air. Options for nighttime heat include ceramic heat emitters, radiant heat panels, and deep heat projector. While these devices can be handy for also assisting comfortable ambient temperatures in your ball python’s enclosure, they should not be used for daytime “basking” heat, as they produce weaker spectrums of infrared radiation (heat). More on that later.
Having the right humidity level in your ball python’s enclosure is crucial for their health and comfort While low humidity comes with its own set of risks, high humidity can also cause major issues if left uncontrolled In this article, we’ll look at the problems caused by excessive moisture, ways to monitor and lower the humidity, and how to keep your snake happy in its home.
What’s The Ideal Humidity Range?
Ball pythons naturally live in the warm, tropical climates of West and Central Africa. To mimic their native habitat the humidity in their enclosure should be kept between 50-60% with a range of acceptability between 40-80%.
During shedding cycles, bumping up the humidity to 70-80% helps loosen their skin. But this spike should only be temporary, ideally lasting just a week or two. Extended periods above 80% can do more harm than good.
Dangers of High Humidity
While moisture is essential for ball pythons, too much can make their environment damp, promoting bacterial and fungal growth. The constant wetness also softens their scales, leading to possible infections.
The main risks of prolonged high humidity include:
-
Scale rot – A bacterial infection that causes their scales to deteriorate, leaving open sores prone to secondary infections. Can be life-threatening if left untreated.
-
Respiratory infections – Excess moisture allows microbes to thrive in their enclosure. Inhaling these germs can cause respiratory issues.
-
Mold and mildew – Fungal growth on surfaces and decor. Can cause respiratory issues if spores are inhaled.
By monitoring humidity closely and keeping it within the ideal 40-80% range, you can avoid these health hazards.
Checking The Humidity
Digital hygrometers are the most accurate tools for measuring humidity in your snake’s enclosure. They display real-time readings to help track moisture levels throughout the day.
I recommend placing one hygrometer on the cool side and one on the warm side. This allows you to spot-check the humidity in different parts of the tank.
Quality options like the Zoo Med Digital Thermometer Humidity Gauge or the Govee Bluetooth Hygrometer provide reliable readings. Make sure to calibrate them regularly for optimal accuracy.
How To Lower Humidity
If your ball python’s enclosure is too humid, there are several ways to bring the levels down:
-
Adjust heating sources – Switch from undertank heating pads to overhead ceramic heat emitters or heat lamps. Pads add moisture while emitters help dry the air.
-
Increase ventilation – Add more air vents or use mesh/screen lids to allow airflow. You can also place a fan near the tank. But avoid sudden drastic drops in humidity.
-
Modify the water dish – Use a smaller water dish, place it only on the cool side, or leave less standing water.
-
Change substrates – Replace moist substrates like cypress mulch with drier options like aspen shavings or paper towels.
-
Lower substrate depth – Thinner substrate dries out faster. Try reducing depth to 1-3 inches.
-
Add dehumidifiers – Mini dehumidifiers can be placed safely in or near the enclosure to extract excess moisture.
-
Maintain proper temperatures – Don’t allow nighttime temps to drop too much. Consistent heating helps regulate humidity.
Start with small adjustments like increasing ventilation or moving the water dish. Monitor humidity daily to see if levels stabilize within the ideal range. Only make additional changes if the problem persists.
With patience and gradual tweaking, you can bring the moisture down to safer levels. Just take care not to create the opposite problem by over-drying the tank.
Providing A Healthy Habitat
While managing humidity takes some work, it’s worth the effort to keep your ball python comfortable and healthy. Here are some final tips:
-
Spot clean messes ASAP to limit bacteria growth.
-
Completely change substrates every 1-2 months.
-
Disinfect water bowls, hides, and decor when dirty.
-
Keep ambient temperatures 78-88°F with a 88-92°F basking spot.
-
Offer a humidity hide with moist moss for shedding.
-
Quarantine new snakes for 90+ days before introducing them.
Monitor your snake closely for signs of respiratory infections like wheezing, mucus in the mouth, or nose/mouth bubbles. Seek vet care promptly if issues arise. With good husbandry and quick treatment, your ball python can thrive for decades in captivity.
Avoiding the pitfalls of both low and high humidity takes diligence and patience. But creating an environment that mimics your ball python’s native climate is worth the effort. Monitor moisture levels daily, make gradual adjustments as needed, and stick to proper husbandry practices. This will keep your snake healthy and comfortable in its home.
BEST: Infrared Lamp Unit
- Pros: superior Infrared-A output, long-lasting, very wide beam, very even heating, wide range of wattage options
- Cons: expensive, deep red tint
Not to be confused with a red-tinted bulb that is being advertised as an “infrared” lamp when it is, in fact, just a red heat lamp, the Reptile Systems Infrared Heat Unit has the best Infrared-A output available on the current market. If you can afford it, it’s well worth the investment!
If you’re wondering which wattage to get, helpful charts estimating temperatures by distance are available here.
GOOD: Halogen flood heat bulbs
- Pros: affordable, dimmable, even heat output, wide beam
- Cons: may not get hot enough, reptile-branded bulbs are more expensive
If you need to buy reptile-branded halogen bulbs because you’re in a pinch (ex: you live in California), make sure that the bulb is white, not red or blue. Handle it with gloves on to help preserve the bulb’s lifespan by keeping your skin oils off of it.
If your ball python’s enclosure is more than 36″ long (which it should be), you will need a cluster of at least two halogen bulbs placed close together to create a basking area large enough to evenly heat most of your snake’s body when in a coiled position.
When using a screen-top enclosure: If you are using a glass terrarium or other enclosure with a mesh top (ex: Maximum Reptile, Zen Habitats, Reptile Habitats), the easiest way to do this is to use a dome-style heat lamp fixture with a ceramic socket, like the Zoo Med Combo Deep Dome dual lamp fixture. That way the mesh will create a barrier between the bulb and the snake, preventing burns. Plus, using two bulbs rather than one creates a larger basking area that will be better able to evenly heat your ball python’s body.
If you have to install heating inside your enclosure: It’s not ideal to install heat lamps inside a snake enclosure, as it reduces the amount of available vertical space available to your pet, and snakes are more likely than other reptiles to come into contact with the heating equipment. If the heat bulbs must be installed inside the enclosure, you will need bulb cages like the Arcadia Heat Lamp Cage to keep your pet from getting burned!
What heat lamp wattage should you use?
This is a common question with no solid answer, sorry! What wattage bulb you will need depends on room temperature, enclosure height, and other factors. What works for one person won’t always work for another, which is why I like dimmable heat lamps so much. When in doubt, try the higher-wattage bulb first and dim as needed.
If your room temperature tends to fluctuate by season, consider purchasing a proportional thermostat like the Herpstat 1, which is the top performing proportional stat in the US at its price point. Unlike non-proportional thermostats, which switch a heat source on and off in order to maintain the target temperature (this can be very annoying when you’re using a light-based heat source), proportional thermostats simply dim the heat source instead.
- PRO TIP: Beware “environmentally-friendly” light bulbs. These bulbs advertise a high wattage, but actually use fewer watts while maintaining the same light output as the advertised wattage. This is great for household lighting, but in a reptile enclosure you need the warmth that extra energy expenditure provides. If you can’t find a good bulb, a reptile day bulb from a pet store works, too, although it will likely have a shorter lifespan.
For best results, place a large, flat slab of rock (flagstone or similar) directly under the heat lamp, along with the warm hide. This is the perfect way to create an ideal basking surface. It also helps transfer heat to the warm hide, which should be placed directly under the basking rock (I find that black plastic hide boxes work GREAT for this). If your warm hide still isn’t getting warm enough, you will need help from a thermostat-controlled heat mat.
Many snake keepers use a heat mat as their primary heat source of choice, covering about 1/3 of the terrarium’s floor space. However, this popular practice only worked when the snakes were kept in plastic tubs and otherwise undersized enclosures, as heat mats lack the power to create warm enough ambient temperatures in appropriate-sized enclosures with a deep substrate layer — in fact, trying to use a heat mat exclusively in an otherwise “cold” enclosure is a good way to give your snake a serious burn! Furthermore, they only produce Infrared-C radiant heat rather than the stronger, deeper-penetrating IR-A and IR-B of halogen bulbs, which compounds their inefficiency as a primary heat source.
So why are heat mats listed as a “good” heat source for ball pythons? Because they’re actually rather good for helping maintain your snake’s warm hide! More or less any well-rated heat mat will work, but mats designed for seed germination have also been used successfully (and are particularly good because they’re waterproof and not sticky).
However, a heat mat is only as good as it’s been set up properly, so here are some rules for using a heat mat in your setup to keep your ball python safe and healthy:
1. Use a heat mat only as a secondary heat source, never a primary. This means that you should be relying on heat lamps first, then adding a heat mat only if you’re having trouble hitting the right temperatures in your warm hide.
2. Don’t let the snake come into direct contact with the mat. Instead, either bury the mat 1″ below the substrate under the warm hide, or (this is my preferred method) place the mat on top of a black box hide and then place a piece of flagstone on top of that. The flagstone then acts as the basking surface as well!
3. Connect your heat mat to a good thermostat! Heat pads have a nasty reputation for overheating, so make sure to buy a thermostat along with it so you don’t accidentally burn your snake. Most people prefer the relatively low cost of non-proportional thermostats for use with heat pads, such as Inkbird. For something higher quality and much less likely to fail (read: safer), consider the Herpstat 1.
I made the mistake of using a heat pad sans thermostat once, and it not only warped the plastic tub, but also changed the color of the wood beneath. The snake was, fortunately, safe, but I had unwittingly kept a major fire hazard in my reptile room during those months.
4. Place your thermostat probe on the snake’s level. Some will tell you to put the thermostat probe on the heat mat itself — this does not enable the thermostat to control the temps that the animal feels, only how hot the heat mat itself gets. In other words, it renders the thermostat almost entirely ineffective. Instead, place the thermostat’s probe inside your ball python’s warm hide, resting on top of the substrate. By placing the probe on your snake’s level, you will know and be able to control exactly what temperature s/he is experiencing. Make sure to check the probe’s position daily and replace it if needed.
For best results, program your thermostat or digital outlet timer to maintain the warm hide’s temperature via heat mat all day and about 2 hours after “sunset” before turning off. This helps replicate the way the sun would warm a burrow in nature.
Humidity for Ball Pythons: how to get it right (and why you need to!)
FAQ
Can humidity be too high for ball pythons?
If the humidity inside your enclosure becomes too high, you may need to replace the substrate, reduce the size of the water bowl, or increase the ventilation. These are all important steps in creating a healthy environment for your ball python.
What happens if a snake enclosure is too humid?
-
Respiratory Issues:High humidity can create an environment where bacteria and fungi thrive, leading to respiratory infections.
-
Skin Problems:Excessive moisture can cause skin problems like scale rot (a bacterial infection that causes scales to lift and rot) and blister disease (fluid-filled blisters on the skin).
-
Fungal and Bacterial Growth:A humid environment promotes the growth of mold, bacteria, and other microorganisms, which can contaminate the enclosure and harm the snake.
-
Dehydration:While high humidity might seem like it would keep the snake hydrated, it can also lead to dehydration if the snake is unable to properly regulate its body temperature and fluid balance.
-
Temperature Regulation:High humidity can make it difficult for snakes to regulate their body temperature, potentially leading to overheating or hypothermia.
-
Substrate Issues:Moist substrate can become a breeding ground for bacteria and mold, further contributing to health problems.
-
Specific Examples:
- Ball Pythons: Ball pythons, which naturally inhabit humid environments, require specific humidity levels (around 60-80% during the day, rising to 80-100% at night).
- Corn Snakes: Corn snakes thrive in moderate humidity (around 40-60%).
- Ball Pythons: Ball pythons, which naturally inhabit humid environments, require specific humidity levels (around 60-80% during the day, rising to 80-100% at night).
-
Solutions:
- Proper Ventilation: Ensure the enclosure has adequate ventilation to prevent moisture buildup.
- Substrate Choice: Use a substrate that is absorbent but not prone to holding excessive moisture.
- Water Bowl Placement: Place water bowls in a way that they don’t contribute to excessive humidity in the enclosure.
- Regular Cleaning: Regularly clean the enclosure and substrate to prevent the buildup of bacteria and mold.
- Humidity Monitoring: Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels and adjust them accordingly.
- Proper Ventilation: Ensure the enclosure has adequate ventilation to prevent moisture buildup.
Can you leave a heat lamp on 24/7 for ball python?
It is recommended to provide a 12-hour on, 12-hour off lighting schedule to mimic their natural habitat.
What is a good humidity level for ball pythons?
Ideal humidity level for ball pythons is between 55-80%. Anything below 55% will cause dehydration, shedding issues and even respiratory infection, while over 80% – bacterial/fungal growth in a cage, scale rot and more. It’s a great idea to keep humidity at around 55-70%, and then a bit higher, up to 80% during ball python shed period.
Can a ball python cage keep humidity high?
If you are having issues maintaining higher humidity in a ball python cage, you can make some adjustments that will help you. Try to avoid using foggers or misters in a ball python tank, as they will keep humidity high all the time. This can cause scale rot and bacterial/fungal growth.
How do you maintain humidity in a ball python?
To maintain humidity for your ball python, make sure to use appropriate substrate, control ventilation, and make cage modifications if necessary. Make sure to have 1-2 hygrometers in a cage like this, to see humidity levels. Some thermometers come with hygrometers, too. Ball python humidity too low? Increasing humidity
Do ball pythons need a humidity box?
Using a humidity box, also known as a humid hide or moisture box, can make a huge difference to your python. It gives your pet ball python a place to go if it feels that it needs more humidity. The humid hide is a simple box placed inside your python’s enclosure.
Why do ball pythons like hot and humid?
Ball pythons like it hot and humid because they are native to western and central Africa. Their favored wild habitats are scrubland, grassland, savanna, and open forest, all of which are typically hot and humid.
How to keep a ball python from shedding?
Make sure to have a humidity hide in a ball python cage. Humidity hide should be same as normal hide, so that your ball python feels same level of security in both of them. You can add some moist sphagnum moss or similar in there to bump up humidity. That’s especially true when your ball python is shedding.