Geckos are one of the most popular lizard species kept as pets. Baby geckos can make adorable additions to any family and when housed and fed properly can grow up to be hardy adults that live many years. The key is to educate yourself before you get them so that you can set them up right from the start.
More than 2,000 species of gecko, varying in color and skin markings/patterns, are recognized around the world. Among the most common pet lizard species are leopard geckos and crested geckos. Less commonly kept geckos include day geckos and Tokay geckos.
When they are born, hatchling geckos are typically 3 to 4 inches long. Adult female leopard geckos grow to 7 to 8 inches, while males grow to 8 to 10 inches. Adult crested geckos of both sexes typically are 4.5-5 inches long.
Many pet stores and breeders sell baby geckos so that owners can bond with their pets at a young age and watch them grow. Baby geckos, however, do not have fully developed skeletal and immune systems and are therefore more susceptible than their older counterparts to developing certain diseases. Thus, they must be fed and housed appropriately when they are first purchased to try to prevent the development of common juvenile diseases.
Once their enclosures are set up properly and a feeding regimen has been established, baby geckos can be relatively easy to care for.
Bringing home a new baby leopard gecko is an exciting time! These unique little lizards make for fascinating pets. With their docile personalities, simple care requirements, and longevity, leopard geckos are one of the most popular reptile pets.
As a new leopard gecko owner, you’ll want to make sure you’re fully prepared to give your new pet the best possible care. Proper husbandry is crucial, especially in the early stages when your gecko is still a fragile baby. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about caring for a baby leopard gecko.
Choosing a Healthy Baby Leopard Gecko
When selecting your new baby leopard gecko there are a few key signs of health to look for
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The tail and spine should be straight, with no kinks or curves.
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There should be no missing toes, as this can indicate overcrowding and health issues.
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The eyes should be clear and alert.
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The body should have no visible bones showing through the skin.
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The tail should be plump, not thin. The belly should be flat and clean, with no signs of feces sticking to it.
Avoid any baby geckos that are lethargic, thin, or have physical deformities. Also steer clear of problematic morphs like enigma that are prone to health issues.
Once you’ve selected a robust, healthy looking baby, it’s time to prepare for bringing it home!
Setting Up the Enclosure
Baby leopard geckos can start out in a 10 gallon tank. Be sure to use a secure lid, as young geckos may be escape artists! Add the following:
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Paper towel, tile, or textured liner as substrate. Avoid loose particles like sand.
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At least 2 hides – one on the warm side, one on the cool side.
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A small, shallow water dish.
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Fake plants, rocks, branches for climbing and enrichment.
You’ll also need an undertank heating mat to create a 88-92F hot spot. The cool side should be 70-75F. A temperature gradient allows self-regulation.
Feeding Your Baby Leopard Gecko
Leopard geckos are insectivores, meaning they eat insects and bugs. Babies should be fed daily. Good staples include:
- Crickets
- Mealworms
- Roaches
- Calcium worms
Offer 2-3 prey items per feeding, no bigger than the space between the gecko’s eyes. Gut load feeders with nutritious food. Dust them with calcium powder at every feeding, and a multivitamin 2x a week.
It’s normal for babies not to eat for the first week at home. Don’t overfeed during this adjustment period.
Handling with Care
Wait 5-7 days after bringing your new baby gecko home before handling it. Start with brief 5 minute sessions, and always scoop gently – never grab at a running gecko.
To pick up a gecko, place your hand lightly over its back, allowing it to walk onto your palm. Never hold a leopard gecko by its tail – this can cause it to detach its tail in self defense!
Go slow with handling to avoid stress. Your baby gecko will become more socialized with regular, gentle interaction.
Humidity and Shedding
Unlike some desert species, leopard geckos do require some extra humidity. Add a humid hide to the warm side filled with damp moss. This will aid your gecko during sheds.
Babies shed every 1-2 weeks as they grow. Before a shed, colors will become dull. Do not pull off any stuck shed – it can damage the new skin underneath.
To assist with shedding, add a reptile-safe moisturizing spray to your gecko’s hide between sheds. The humidity hide will also provide relief.
Monitoring Health
Keep an eye out for these signs of illness in your baby leopard gecko:
- Weight loss or lethargy
- Regurgitation of food
- Runny stools
- Mucus in mouth or nose
- Abscesses or infections
If you notice any of these, book a vet visit right away. A healthy gecko is active at night, eats well, and has solid urates. Contact a reptile vet if anything seems off.
Avoiding Stress
Baby leopard geckos are quite sensitive to stress. Avoid too much handling, noise, and other stimulation during your gecko’s first weeks at home.
Keep the enclosure in a quiet room away from other pets, children, and high traffic areas. Limit opening the habitat. Provide plenty of hides and don’t overcrowd with decor.
Try to maintain a consistent routine day and night. Stress can lead to appetite and health issues in delicate babies.
Potential Health Issues
Here are some common health problems to watch out for with baby leopard geckos:
Metabolic Bone Disease: Caused by calcium deficiency. Symptoms include weak jaws, rubbery legs, and trouble walking. Prevent with proper supplements.
Respiratory Infections: Caused by cold temperatures or high humidity. Signs are mouth gaping and nasal discharge. See a vet promptly.
Intestinal Blockages: Can occur if substrate like sand is ingested. Causes vomiting, lethargy, and loss of appetite.
Tail Loss: Caused by grabbing the tail. The tail will regrow but requires extra energy. Apply antibiotic ointment to the site.
Egg Binding: Occurs if a female can’t pass eggs. Causes loss of appetite and lethargy. A vet can provide medication and massage.
With attentive care and husbandry, you can avoid most health issues and keep your baby leopard gecko thriving long term!
Setting Up for Success
Caring for a baby leopard gecko is very rewarding, but does require some specialized considerations. By following this guide, you’ll be well equipped to give your new little friend a great start in your home.
Here are some key tips to remember:
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Select a robust, healthy baby from a reputable source. Avoid problematic morphs.
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Set up an appropriate 10 gallon enclosure with proper heating, lighting, substrate and hides.
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Feed a healthy, varied insect diet dusted with supplements daily.
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Allow a 5-7 day adjustment period before gentle handling sessions.
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Maintain proper humidity and assist with shedding as needed.
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Keep handling and environmental changes to a minimum at first to prevent stress.
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Monitor for signs of illness and see a vet promptly if issues arise.
With the right information and preparation, you can feel confident bringing your exciting new baby leopard gecko home! Patient care in these early stages will lead to a thriving, long lived companion.
Baby Geckos Need Warmth and Humidity
All types of gecko, regardless of species, need supplemental heat in their enclosures. Heat may be provided with an over-the-tank heat bulb or an under-the-tank heat mat placed at one end of the tank. Hot rocks are not recommended, as they can get very hot, and reptiles often don’t move off them before they get burned.
Gecko tanks should have a temperature range with a warm end and a cool end. The ideal temperature range for a gecko depends on the species. Leopard geckos should have a warm zone (containing the hide box) that is about 90°F and a cool zone that is no lower than the low 70s°F. Crested geckos do better at slightly lower temperatures, with the warm zone in the upper 70s to low 80s°F and the cool zone no lower than about 70°F.
Tank temperatures should be monitored daily with “point and shoot” temperature guns, available in most pet stores, or with traditional temperature strips or thermometers that stick on the inner walls of the tank. The amount of heat provided may need to be varied seasonally depending on the ambient temperature of the room in which the lizard is housed.
Humidity must be monitored, as well, with gauges called hygrometers. Ideally, humidity should be maintained between 50-70 percent to ensure that lizards are hydrated and shed their skin properly. Daily misting of the tank helps to keep humidity adequate.
Most gecko species are nocturnal in the wild, being active at night, so they are not exposed to a great deal of sunlight. Consequently, some reptile breeders and veterinarians feel that geckos do not require UV light. Provision of UV light to geckos is, however, controversial, and certain veterinarians (including this author) feel that geckos do better and are less likely to develop common skeletal diseases, such as metabolic bone disease, when they are exposed daily to a few hours of UV light from a full-spectrum UV bulb, particularly if they are housed completely indoors.
While geckos in the wild may live on sand or soil, these substrates are generally not recommended in a pet gecko’s enclosure, as the animal may inadvertently ingest them and develop gastrointestinal impactions or obstructions. Paper-based bedding, such as recycled paper pellets typically used for guinea pigs and rabbits, or shredded newspaper, are better, since they are digestible if consumed.
For a more natural look, pieces of reptile carpet, sold in pet stores, may be used as bedding; however, reptile carpet must be changed frequently, as it gets soiled with food and feces quickly.
Making a Home for Your Baby Gecko
Geckos are typically housed in 10- to 20-gallon glass aquariums. Plastic storage boxes, such as those for storing sweaters, also may be used, as long as the box is at least one-foot high to prevent the lizard from jumping out. Twenty-gallon tanks are better for larger adults or if more than one gecko is being housed in the same tank.
Tanks larger than 20 gallons may be harder to keep warm and humid enough and may enable the gecko to avoid sitting under heat and ultraviolet (UV) lights. All enclosures must have a secure mesh top to prevent escape and to promote good ventilation. A small, upside down, plastic box with a cut-out door, filled with moist moss or vermiculite, can be used within the enclosure as a hide box to help maintain the humidity high enough to enable the gecko to shed its skin properly. Live or artificial plants can be added to the enclosure, as well, to help maintain humidity and to satisfy the gecko’s desire to climb.
Owning A Tiny Baby Leopard Gecko | THE FIRST WEEK
FAQ
How to keep a baby gecko alive?
Feed a Balanced Diet
Baby geckos are insectivores, meaning they eat small insects like crickets, mealworms, and fruit flies. Here’s how to ensure they get the nutrition they need: Feed small insects: The insects should be no longer than the width of the baby gecko’s head to prevent choking.
Do baby geckos like to be held?
As babies, they are especially easily frightened. It is sometimes recommended to not handle them until they are over a year old as they become more confident and more used to you as time passes. They are nocturnal, so handling them in the daytime when they prefer to be sleeping is also stressful for them.
How often should I mist my baby leopard gecko?
To maintain this humidity level, you should mist your gecko’s terrarium once or twice a day, depending on the size of the enclosure and the current humidity …Feb 23, 2023
Do baby leopard geckos need a heat lamp?
Leopard geckos love the warmth coming from their basking lamp but they also appreciate secondary belly heat which will radiate from warm objects. Natural rocks like slate are perfect for this, so are heavy artificial ornaments. These decorations can be placed under and around the basking area and should warm up nicely.