Pacman frogs, or Argentine horned frogs, are a robust frog found in moist grasslands from Argentina to Brazil. Their name is taken from the iconic 1980s Pac-Man arcade game, as they share the same voracious appetite, round body and large mouth.
Over the years, due to their easy care, general hardiness and availability of captive-bred specimens, Pacman frogs have become popular pets and are usually available at most pet stores. However, they are not suitable pets if you want an active frog.
Baby Pacman frogs can reach adult size in about one year if well fed. Male Pacman frogs can grow up to three to four inches in length, whereas females can be larger at about four to seven inches. Adult females can weigh over a pound.
The average lifespan is between seven to 10 years. If well cared for, they can live up to 15 years in captivity.
Pacman frogs come in a variety of color morphs. Always opt for captive-bred frogs instead of wild-caught imports for their increased hardiness and multiple color morphs.
Pacman frogs are ambush predators that sit and wait for a passing meal. They spend most of the time sitting half-buried in the bedding and waiting for food. Due to their inactive nature, they do not need a large enclosure, as they won’t utilize the extra space provided.
A 10-gallon terrarium is the standard size for an adult. Babies can be kept in smaller, plastic cages until they are large enough for an upgrade.
The biggest part of caring for your Pacman frog is the substrate. They love to dig down and bury themselves, so proper bedding is important. Acceptable choices include coconut fiber, organic potting soil or bioactive substrates. Avoid using gravel, as it is hard to burrow into and might be accidentally consumed.
Pacman frogs will use hiding spots, such as live or plastic plants, smooth cave structures, leaf litter and moss. Moss can also help keep the humidity high and can be remoistened as needed.
The substrate should be misted as necessary to prevent drying out; it should be damp but never soaking wet. If it does dry out, the frog might enter into a state of hibernation, or brumation. Their outer skin will thicken to prevent dehydration, their movement will stop and they will appear dead. However, once rehydration occurs, they will shed and eat the outer skin and return to normal.
Avoid this behavior; it is the Pacman frog’s last effort to survive a drought, and it might not always revive after rehydration occurs.
Bringing home a new baby pacman frog is an exciting time! These unique amphibians make for fascinating pets,
With their big mouths and voracious appetites, pacman frogs are sure to provide endless entertainment. Their chunky bodies and goofy faces are irresistibly cute.
However, pacman frogs require specialized care, especially when they are babies. Proper husbandry is key to keeping your new pet healthy and happy.
This guide will teach you everything you need to know about caring for your new baby pacman frog Follow these tips and your froggy friend will thrive under your care!
Setting Up the Perfect Habitat
A proper habitat is essential for your baby pacman frog. Here’s what you need to know:
Enclosure
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A 10 gallon tank is sufficient for a baby. They grow quickly so upgrade to a 20 gallon for an adult.
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Glass aquariums or plastic reptile enclosures both work well. Make sure the enclosure has a tight fitting solid lid.
Substrate
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Use a moisture-retaining substrate like coconut fiber, cypress mulch, or orchid bark.
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The substrate should be 2-3 inches deep to allow burrowing. Keep it damp but not soaked.
Temperature and Humidity
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Day temps of 75°F-82°F and night temps of 70°F-75°F are ideal. No additional heat source is needed.
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Maintain humidity around 80%. Mist the tank daily and provide a shallow water dish.
Decor
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Include hiding spots like plants, logs, rocks, or cork flats. Live pothos plants help purify the air.
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Avoid sharp decor or small loose items that could be accidentally swallowed.
Feeding Your Pacman Frog
Pacman frogs are voracious eaters! Follow these tips for proper nutrition:
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Offer a variety of gut-loaded insects like crickets, roaches, worms. Dust with calcium + D3 supplement.
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Babies should be fed daily while adults can eat every 2-3 days. Feed until your frog loses interest, usually 10-15 minutes.
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Remove any uneaten food to keep the tank clean. Never feed insects from outside due to pesticide risk.
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Avoid feeding mice or other high fat foods which can cause health issues.
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Always wash your hands before and after handling food to prevent spreading germs or toxins.
Caring for Your Frog’s Health
With good care, pacman frogs are quite hardy. Watch for these potential health issues:
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Corneal lipidosis – Milky film over the eyes caused by too many high-fat feeders. Stick to lean insects as the bulk of the diet.
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Metabolic bone disease – Weak bones and deformed jaws due to lack of calcium and D3. Dust feeders at every meal.
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Foreign body ingestion – Your frog may accidentally swallow loose substrate or decor when eating. Feed in a separate bare enclosure.
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Toxic out syndrome – Erratic movements when your frog sits in dirty water or substrate. Change water and substrate frequently.
Handling Your Pacman Frog
Pacman frogs have sensitive skin so handle sparingly. Their strong feeding response also makes them prone to biting fingers by mistake. Follow these tips for safe handling:
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Always wash hands and wear disposable gloves before handling. Moisten gloves with dechlorinated water first.
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Never handle after applying lotions, perfumes, or other chemicals which can absorb into your frog’s skin.
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Scoop up your frog gently, supporting the underside. Never squeeze or tightly restrain them.
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Limit handling to once or twice a week for a few minutes at a time.
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Move slowly and confidently. If your frog lunges, stay calm and don’t jerk away.
Bonding with Your New Pet
While pacman frogs don’t enjoy frequent handling, you can still form a close bond:
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Hand feed your frog. Use long tweezers so your fingers stay safely out of reach.
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Observe behaviors like burrowing into substrate or floating in the water dish.
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Talk calmly and be present while doing tank maintenance. This helps your frog recognize you.
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Keep a consistent day/night schedule for feeding and lighting.
With time and patience, your frog will come to see you as a trusted caretaker!
Bringing Your Pacman Frog Home
Now that you know the basics of pacman frog care, you can confidently bring one of these charming amphibians home.
With the proper setup and care routine, your new pet will settle in happily. Pay close attention in the first weeks to be sure your frog is eating and behaving normally.
Pacman frogs may not be cuddly, but their alienesque faces and hearty appetites make them fascinating companions. Follow this guide and you’ll be on your way to giving your new pet frog a long, healthy life!
Pacman Frog Food and Water
Pacman frogs are easy to feed, as they are greedy and indiscriminating eaters. Babies will mainly eat small insects and fish, including crickets, guppies, minnows, mealworms, dubia roaches and wax worms. Sub-adults can be fed the occasional pinkie mouse. Adults can eat an occasional full-grown mouse or baby rat. If you do offer goldfish, limit the amount as goldfish contain a chemical called thiaminase that can build up in the body and potentially harm your frog.
Smaller Pacman frogs that are mainly fed insects should be offered food daily. Larger frogs can be fed every two to three days. However, please note that Pacman frogs will eat anything that fits in their mouth, including other frogs, so don’t house two or more frogs together.
Watch your frog’s body weight and feed it accordingly. Supplementation in the form of “dusting” the food should be done at least every other feeding with a high-quality vitamin/mineral supplement to ensure proper bone growth and prevent deficiencies.
Provide a shallow dish of water that allows the frog to drink and bathe without drowning; Pacman frogs are terrible swimmers and don’t like deep water.
Temperature and Lighting
Pacman frogs need to be in the 70 to 85-degree range. Daytime temperatures can be kept about 80 to 84 degrees. It can drop down to the mid-70s at night.
Place an undertank heating pad on one end of the cage, but use a thermostat to prevent the frog from burning if it digs down too far. Add an incandescent heat bulb for supplement heat, if needed. Keep in mind that young frogs can quickly dry out under a hot lamp.
Other than the potential heat lamp, Pacman frogs don’t require special lighting; regular room lighting will suffice. If you have live plants, add a fluorescent fixture and put it on eight to 12 hours a day. For a UVA/UVB light, make sure it’s an amphibian-safe strength and not one designed for desert inhabitants.
Pro Tips: How to care for baby Pacman Frogs
FAQ
How do you take care of a baby Pacman frog?
Never Feed
Froglets should be fed every other day or 3 times per week. Adult frogs should eat every 7-10 days. As your frog gets older, decrease frequency but offer more food during meals. Pacman frogs need calcium and a multivitamin.
What size tank does a baby Pacman frog need?
Choosing the Right Enclosure
Since Pacman frogs are sedentary creatures, they do not need a very spacious habitat. Habitats should have at least a 10- to 20-gallon capacity.
How long can a juvenile Pacman frog go without eating?
A Pacman can hibernate and go without eating for up to one month in captivity. Baby Pacman frogs less than a year old should never be allowed to go into hibernation. Their little bodies don’t have enough fat stores to make it through an extended brumation period.
How deep should the substrate be for a Pacman frog?
Substrate should be 4-6 inches deep and should be spot cleaned daily, sifted through once weekly, and completely changed every other week. As these toads tend not to be very active, a 20-gallon tank with good ventilation is sufficient in size.