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Managing Humidity Levels for Blue Tongue Skinks

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Humidity is a crucial factor in creating an ideal habitat for blue tongue skinks Proper humidity allows blue tongue skinks to shed their skin easily, prevents respiratory infections, and contributes to overall health and happiness However, both low and excessively high humidity can cause problems for these unique lizards. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll discuss everything you need to know about managing humidity for different blue tongue skink species.

Understanding Blue Tongue Skink Humidity Requirements

There are several subspecies of blue tongue skinks, each with slightly different ideal humidity ranges. Here is a quick overview of the humidity requirements for popular blue tongue skink species and subspecies:

  • Indonesian blue tongue skinks – 40-50% humidity with spikes to 70-80%
  • Kei island blue tongue skinks – 40-50% with spikes to 70-80%
  • Merauke blue tongue skinks – 60-70% with spikes to 80-90%
  • Centralian blue tongue skinks – 25-40% humidity
  • Western blue tongue skinks – 25-40% humidity
  • Northern blue tongue skinks – 35-45% humidity
  • Eastern blue tongue skinks – 40-50% humidity

As you can see, Indonesian subspecies and Merauke blue tongues need higher humidity levels than Australian species like Centralian and Western blue tongues

It’s crucial to avoid keeping humidity high constantly, even for species that thrive in more humid conditions. Aim to increase humidity levels for a few hours, allowing the tank to dry out for part of the day. This prevents fungal or bacterial growth that can cause skin and respiratory issues.

Monitoring Humidity in the Enclosure

To maintain proper humidity ranges, you need to monitor levels in the tank. Digital hygrometers are the most accurate tool for this. Place 2-3 hygrometers in different spots in the enclosure to get a full picture of humidity levels. Avoid unreliable analog hygrometers.

Raising Humidity Levels

If your blue tongue skink’s humidity is too low, here are some effective ways to raise it:

  • Use a moisture-retaining substrate like coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, or cypress mulch. Avoid overly dry substrates.
  • Add a large water bowl. The increased surface area leads to more evaporation.
  • Use a humidifier or fogger for a few hours a day. Ensure proper ventilation to prevent stagnant air.
  • Increase hydration before sheds. Dry, flaky skin means more humidity is needed.
  • Cover part of the mesh top with foil or plexiglass to retain moisture.
  • Create a humid hide box using moss so the skink can self-regulate.
  • Switch to an acrylic or plastic enclosure which holds humidity better than glass.
  • Add live plants to naturally increase humidity through transpiration.

Lowering Humidity Levels

For blue tongue skinks that thrive in drier conditions, here are tips for reducing excessive humidity:

  • Use lower-moisture substrates like aspen shavings, cypress mulch, or reptichip.
  • Ensure proper ventilation and air flow. Use a mesh top and place the enclosure in a well-ventilated room.
  • Move the water dish to the cool side of the tank to reduce evaporation.
  • Avoid soaking or pouring water into the substrate; provide hydration via the water dish.
  • Use a dehumidifier outside or inside the tank if humidity won’t come down through other methods.
  • Switch to a glass tank, which retains less humidity than plastic or acrylic.
  • Reduce the water dish size for less evaporative surface area.

Ideal Humidity Ranges Throughout the Day

To recap, the key for species requiring higher humidity is to allow the tank to dry out for part of the day. Don’t keep it constantly wet.

Here are some sample daily humidity schedules:

For 40-50% average humidity species:

  • 8 am – 10 am: Humidity rises to 65-70%
  • 10 am – 6 pm: Humidity drops back down to 40-50% as the tank dries
  • 6 pm – 10 pm: Increase humidity back to 65-70%

For 60-70% average humidity species:

  • 8 am – 10 am: Allow humidity to peak around 80-85%
  • 10 am – 6 pm: Humidity drops back to 60-70% as the tank dries
  • 6 pm – 10 pm: Increase humidity to 80-85% range again

This fluctuation is healthy as long as the average stays in the ideal range and the tank fully dries periodically.

Signs Humidity is Too Low or High

Here are signs that the humidity in your blue tongue skink enclosure needs adjustment:

Indications humidity is too low:

  • Dry, flaky, stuck shed
  • Increased soaking in the water dish
  • Gaping mouth breathing
  • Congested breathing sounds
  • Increased risk of respiratory infections

Indications humidity is too high:

  • Wet or standing water in tank
  • Mold/fungus on walls or decorations
  • Bacterial bloom on water or substrate
  • Odd smells from bacterial overgrowth
  • Lethargy or wheezing from respiratory irritation

Make humidity adjustments as needed based on these signs of overdryness or excess moisture.

While blue tongue skinks have slightly varying humidity requirements, the goal across species is to provide an enclosure that is neither too wet nor too dry. Monitor humidity closely, allow for daily fluctuations, and watch your pet’s behavior to find the ideal balance. With the proper humidity management, your blue tongue skink will thrive!

blue tongue skink humidity

Placing Your Skink’s UVB

Zoo Med and Arcadia are the only UVB brands recommended by ReptiFiles. These are appropriate for use on top of or inside 18-24″ tall enclosures, and should be long enough to span half of the enclosure’s total length. In order to use these bulbs properly, they will need to be replaced every 12 months even if they seem to be working fine, since UVB output declines over time even though light output doesn’t. For the safety of the skink, it should be able to get no closer than 10″ to the bulb.

Also, make sure that the fixture doesn’t have a piece of glass or plastic to “protect” the bulb. UVB rays are blocked by glass and plastic, rendering that bulb you just spent so much money on completely useless. Naked UVB bulbs are effective UVB bulbs!

If you have a Solarmeter 6.5 (strongly recommended) to measure your lamp’s UVB output, shoot for a UV Index reading that ranges between 3.0-4.0 in the basking area. If you don’t have a Solarmeter, here is a rough estimate how far away your skink’s back should be from the UVB bulb during basking:

With mesh obstruction:

Without mesh obstruction:

Different T5 HO bulb fixtures affect the amount of UVB your skink will receive from the bulb differently. The distance given above are only accurate if the bulb is mounted in an Arcadia ProT5 or Vivarium Electronics T5 HO fixture.

UVB bulbs decay over time, so even if it still appears to be producing visible light, it may not be producing UVB! Make sure to change out your bulb every 12 months to maintain good UVB output.

blue tongue skink humidity

Blue Tongue Skink Temperatures & Heating

Since blue tongue skinks are cold-blooded, they rely on their environment to provide the heat needed to function. The best way to achieve this is to provide a temperature gradient so the skink can self-regulate according to his/her needs. Use a temperature gun like the Etekcity Lasergrip 774 for instant, accurate information on your skink’s environment.

  • Basking surface: 100-105°F (37-40°C)
    • T. scincoides — 105-115°F (40-46°C)
  • Cool:
    • Australian species — 70-85°F (21°-29°C)
    • Indonesian species — 75-85°F (24-29°C)
  • Nighttime:
    • Australian species — 65-75°F (18°-24°C)
    • Indonesian species — 70-75°F (21-24°C)

Use a cluster of at least two high-wattage halogen flood bulbs inside of a dome heat lamp with a ceramic socket to safely achieve the right basking temperatures and thermal gradient. You can find the bulbs you need at the hardware store or pet store, but be sure to get halogen flood bulbs rather than rounded house bulbs. Halogen bulbs tend to last longer and burn hotter, so although they’re more expensive, they’re a better investment.

For the average 24″ tall enclosure, a 75w bulb should achieve the temperatures you need. I recommend the Arcadia Halogen Heat Lamp or Zoo Med Repti Tuff Splashproof Halogen for the job. If you find that gets a bit too hot, use a plug-in lamp dimmer to dial down the heat. If you still have trouble achieving the right surface temperature, try raising the basking area closer to the heat bulb or switching to a higher wattage bulb.

  • PRO TIP: If you really want to invest in high-quality heating for your blue tongue skink, get a Reptile Systems Infrared Gold Unit. This is a GREAT heat lamp due to its sky-high Infrared-A output, but it’s different from what you may be used to. You only need one unit due to its wide spread, and don’t be alarmed by the deep red color — it’s not the same as a typical “red bulb.” Charts for approximate basking temperature at varying distances are available on the manufacturer’s website here.

At average household room temperatures, blue tongue skinks generally do not need any kind of lighting or heating during the night. Some people prefer red or black bulbs for providing nighttime heat, but it’s actually healthier for skinks to experience a nightly temperature drop. However, without adequate daytime warming, these cool temperatures may induce brumation or illness.

If you need to heat your enclosure at night because it gets too cool, use a non-light emitting heat source like a ceramic heat emitter or radiant heat panel to warm the enclosure to an appropriate air temperature (not basking temp). These heat sources are not appropriate to use during the day, however.

Don’t forget to use a basking stone! In my experience I noticed dramatic improvements in my skinks’ activity and behavior after adding the stone, and I regret not installing one sooner. Take a piece of slate tile or flagstone and place it underneath the heat lamp. The stone will absorb heat from the lamp, providing warmth from both above and below in the same way that blue tongue skinks prefer to bask in the wild. If you want to have a healthy blue tongue skink, this is not an optional piece of terrarium furniture.

Never use a heat rock! These are not the same as a basking stone, since they are heated from inside with electrical wiring. Heat rocks are infamous for burning reptiles, so long story short: don’t do it.

Blue Tongue Skink Care Guide 2024

FAQ

Do blue tongue skinks need high humidity?

Halmahera blue tongue skinks need an environment with very high humidity levels, higher than any other type of blue tongue.Sep 5, 2022

How hot is too hot for a blue tongue skink?

Temperature and Lighting

Ideal temperatures for blue tongued skinks range from 75-80°F on the cool side and 80-85°F on the warm side. Provide a basking area on the warm side around 90-95°F. Blue tongued skinks also require UVB lighting to thrive and be healthy.

What is the best humidifier for a blue tongue skink?

If you’re on a tight budget, get a humidifier like the ReptiZoo Reptile Fogger. However, personally I recommend investing in an automatic misting system like the MistKing Starter system, as you’ll get more lasting humidity effects which will be better for your skink’s long-term health.

Is a 40 gallon tank good for a blue tongue skink?

They must have the large vivarium, a fish tank is not suitable and the vivarium must fit the size requirement. They cannot live in a 40 gallon breeder their entire life. Despite their stature, blue tongue skinks are quite active and avid burrowers so they need lots of room to move around.

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