As a fellow leopard gecko enthusiast, I know how crucial it is to provide our scaly pals with the ideal habitat conditions One of the most overlooked yet vital elements is humidity. While leopard geckos hail from arid regions, maintaining extremely low humidity can pose serious health risks Through my years of experience and research, I’ve learned the ins and outs of humidity control to keep your gecko thriving.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know, including:
- The dangers of low humidity
- Recommended humidity ranges
- Ways to increase humidity
- FAQs on leopard gecko humidity
I aim to equip you with the knowledge to confidently monitor and adjust humidity like a pro. Let’s dive in!
Dangers of Low Humidity for Leopard Geckos
Leopard geckos come from dry, desert environments. But don’t let that fool you – humidity still matters! Prolonged exposure to levels below 30%, especially below 20%, can negatively impact your gecko’s health. Here are some of the most common issues:
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Shedding difficulties: Dry air causes skin to lose elasticity. This makes it hard for your gecko to shed properly, often leading to unsightly stuck shed.
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Dehydration: Low humidity contributes to water loss from the skin. Dehydration stresses the body, impairs organ function, and lowers immunity.
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Respiratory problems: Extremely dry air irritates the delicate respiratory tract, making geckos prone to infections.
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General discomfort and stress: Geckos become inactive and stressed in overly dry environments. This takes a toll on their appetite and overall wellbeing.
So while leopard geckos are adapted to dry conditions, some humidity is still essential. Let’s look at ideal humidity ranges next.
Recommended Humidity Levels
Here are the humidity ranges to aim for in your leopard gecko enclosure:
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Ambient humidity (entire enclosure): 30-40%
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Cool/dry side: 30-40%
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Humid hide: 70-80%
The key is providing a humidity gradient. The overall enclosure should be moderately dry, with a humid hide as a localized moist refuge.
Why a Humid Hide is Crucial
A humid hide is a must-have to support proper shedding and hydration. This is a small, enclosed shelter on the warm side filled with moist substrate. It provides vital extra moisture to prevent the issues associated with low humidity.
Some suitable humid hide substrates are sphagnum moss, paper towels, and coconut fiber. Mist the interior regularly to maintain 70-80% humidity inside.
Now let’s explore methods to raise humidity in leopard gecko enclosures.
Tips to Increase Humidity
Here are some simple, safe ways to boost humidity in your leopard gecko’s tank:
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Use a large, shallow water dish – More surface area means increased evaporation.
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Mist sparingly 1-2 times per week – Aim for the cool side to avoid over-saturation.
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Reduce ventilation – Cover a small portion of screen top with foil to retain moisture.
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Use a humid hide – A moist hide box is ideal for providing a humid microclimate.
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Use moisture-friendly substrates – Coconut fiber is an excellent choice to gently raise humidity.
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Get a hygrometer – Monitor humidity levels to make accurate adjustments.
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Add live plants – Live plants add minimal moisture through transpiration.
The goal is to raise humidity just enough while avoiding excessive moisture. Misting the entire tank heavily or using damp substrates can do more harm than good. That leads us to…
What If Humidity is Too High?
While low humidity causes issues, so can prolonged high humidity above 60%. Problems associated with overly humid enclosures include:
- Respiratory infections
- Skin infections
- Mold outbreaks
- Bacterial blooms
To lower high humidity, improve ventilation, use drier substrates like paper towels, and avoid misting the entire enclosure. Use a hygrometer to track humidity 24/7.
FAQs on Leopard Gecko Humidity
Let’s recap some common questions on humidity control:
Q: How often should I mist my leopard gecko’s tank?
A: Misting 1-2 times per week is usually sufficient, depending on climate. Focus on the cool side and avoid over-saturation.
Q: Can I use a fogger to increase humidity?
A: Yes, but use caution and monitor with a hygrometer. It’s easy to overdo it with foggers.
Q: What humidity level is too low for leopard geckos?
A: Below 30% for extended periods is too low. Levels below 20% long-term pose a health risk.
Q: What’s the ideal humidity range for the humid hide?
A: 70-80% is perfect. Use a hygrometer inside the hide to monitor levels.
Q: How do I lower high humidity?
A: Improve ventilation, use drier substrates, replace damp hide substrate, and avoid misting the entire tank.
Q: What are signs my leopard gecko is dehydrated?
A: Wrinkled skin, sunken eyes, lethargy, and difficulty shedding can indicate dehydration.
Q: Can paper towels be used as a substrate for leopard geckos?
A: Yes, paper towels are hygienic and help maintain proper humidity ranges.
Concluding Thoughts
Controlling humidity for leopard geckos is all about balance – you want to avoid extremes on either end. The ideal ambient humidity range is 30-40%, with a humid hide providing localized moisture. Careful monitoring and making small adjustments is key.
With the information provided in this guide, you now have the knowledge to assess and regulate humidity like an expert. Let’s keep our geckos happy, hydrated, and healthy! Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any other questions. Your gecko’s wellbeing is my top priority.
What about night bulbs?
Black or red lights are not needed for nighttime heat, and can interfere with your gecko’s day/night cycle. In fact, blue lights are known to potentially damage reptiles’ eyes! It is best to save your money and not purchase one.
Leopard geckos, like all reptiles, need a temperature gradient in their terrarium for best health.
- Basking surface temperature: 94-97°F (34-36°C)
- Warm hide temperature: 90-92°F (32-33°C)
- Cool end: 70-77°F (21-25°C)
At night, leopard geckos can tolerate a drop in temperature down to 60°F (16°C). Studies show that a nightly drop in temperature is healthier than maintaining the same temperatures as during the day, and is greatly beneficial for a reptile’s long-term health. If your home is very cold and you need to provide a nighttime heat source, do not use a colored night heat bulb. Contrary to popular belief, reptiles do see the light from these bulbs and it can disrupt their sleep/wake cycle. A better alternative is a ceramic heat emitter mounted inside of a wire cage-type fixture. CHEs are very good at increasing ambient (air) temperature inside of a cold enclosure.
Leopard geckos prefer to hide in warm shelters during the daytime, using their warmth to “charge” themselves for nighttime activity. Ideally a leopard gecko should have minimum 2 hides placed at different spots around the enclosure to facilitate thermoregulation: one on the warm end near the heat source, and one on the cool end.
- PRO TIP: Pinpoint your surface temperature gradient with a temperature gun like the Etekcity Lasergrip 774. They’re the most precise option on the market — plus fun to use!
Current weather in leopard gecko habitat — Islamabad, Pakistan
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There is a common myth that because leopard geckos are “nocturnal,” they don’t need any light at all to see or function, and providing light will burn their eyes. I repeat: This is a myth!
Leopard geckos are crepuscular, which means that they most active at dawn/dusk. While their eyes evolved for low light conditions, and they tend to be much more active during the night than during the day, this does not mean that they do not need lighting as part of their enclosure setup.
In fact, having a light on in the tank helps regulate their day/night cycle, which is good for their mental health and stimulates appetite. According to the UV Tool by Dr. Frances Baines, light should be provided for 14 hours/day during the summer, which simulates their optimal photoperiod. To simulate the change of the seasons, reduce the amount of light to 12 hours during winter. If you don’t want to do this manually, using a smart timer like Kasa to sync your lights with your local sunrise/sunset times also works.
Daytime light is also nice for viewing; occasionally leopard geckos will come out during the day to bask. This is not unusual — many nocturnal species have been observed basking, especially in the morning.
What about UVB?
There are three types of ultraviolet radiation produced by the sun: UVA, UVB, and UVC. UVC destroys DNA and is blocked by Earth’s atmosphere, but nearly all animals on the planet have evolved to depend on the other two wavelengths. Reptiles in particular benefit from exposure to UVA for their eyesight and UVB for healthy metabolism, specifically vitamin D synthesis and calcium metabolism.
Many leopard gecko keepers will tell you that leopard geckos “don’t need UVB.” This is partially true. Since they are most active when the sun is either weak or not present, they are not as dependent on UVA and UVB as diurnal species. However, mounting scientific evidence is proving this assumption incorrect and outdated — when offered, leopard geckos and other nocturnal species will bask under and benefit from UVB lighting.
For more information on the benefits of UVB lighting for leopard geckos, please read this paper from the March-June 2018 volume of the Journal of Herpetological Medicine and Surgery.
- Wild type (“normal”) and other well-pigmented leopard geckos should have a basking UV Index between 0.5 – 1.5*.
- Albino, patternless, and other less-pigmented morphs of leopard gecko are more sensitive to (and can be burned by) excess UVB. For them, use a basking UV Index of no more than 0.5 – 0.7*.
*UVI measurements are per recommendations from Frances Baines, D.V.M.
A Solarmeter 6.5 is required to accurately measure UVI. If you don’t have access to a Solarmeter, here is a rough estimate of the optimal distance between your basking platform and UVB lamp for leopard geckos. The following numbers assume a mesh obstruction of 30%.
NORMAL PIGMENTATION (UVI 1.5-0.5)
Lamp mounted over enclosure (mesh):
Lamp mounted inside enclosure (no mesh):
HYPO-PIGMENTATION (UVI 0.7-0.5)
Lamp mounted over enclosure (mesh):
Lamp mounted inside enclosure (no mesh):
For best results, add 1-2″ to the above distance recommendations to account for your gecko’s height.
Warning: UVB bulb output declines over time, even when the visible light remains. T5 bulbs last 12 months before requiring replacement, and T8 bulbs last 6 months before requiring replacement. UVB bulbs not produced by Zoo Med or Arcadia are likely to have shorter lifespans and may not have a reliable output.