Pet Jumping Spider: The Complete Care Guide
Jumping spiders are gaining popularity as unique and low-maintenance pets. With their inquisitive nature, bold colors, and energetic personalities, it’s no wonder more people want to bring these tiny acrobats into their homes
Caring for a pet jumping spider is relatively straightforward, but there are some key things you need to know to keep your spider healthy and happy. In this complete care guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about habitat setup, handling, feeding, and more.
Jumping Spider Facts
Before diving into care, let’s go over some basics about jumping spiders:
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There are over 5,000 species of jumping spiders globally. Some of the most popular pet species are the bold jumping spider, regal jumping spider, and tan jumping spider.
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Jumping spiders are diurnal, meaning they are active during the day. At night they retreat to make silken nests.
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They have excellent eyesight and can see objects up to 18 inches away. This helps them hunt.
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Jumping spiders don’t spin traditional webs. Instead, they are ambush predators who leap onto prey.
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They use silk to build nests but not to capture prey. The nests provide shelter and protect their eggs.
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Jumping spiders are solitary and cannibalistic. They should always be housed one per enclosure.
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Wild jumping spiders live 1-2 years on average. With proper care, pet jumping spiders can live a bit longer.
Jumping Spider Enclosure
An appropriately sized and designed enclosure is fundamental for a happy jumping spider. Here are tips for setting up the ideal housing:
Size: For most adult jumping spiders, an enclosure around 5-10 gallons provides ample space. Spiderlings can start in smaller 1-2 gallon enclosures.
Shape: Vertical space is more important than floor space since jumping spiders like to climb. Prioritize height over width.
Access: Get an enclosure with a front-opening door rather than a top-opening lid. This prevents escape during maintenance.
Ventilation: Make sure the enclosure has ventilation holes for airflow. Avoid small openings that permit prey escape.
Furnishings: Add vertical sticks, fake foliage, cork bark, etc. for climbing and anchoring webs. Include ample open space too.
Substrate: Use 2-3 inches of substrate like coconut fiber to retain some moisture.
Location: Situate the enclosure away from high traffic areas, loud noises, other pets, and direct sunlight.
Cleaning: Spot clean waste and uneaten food promptly. Completely change substrate every 4-6 months.
Jumping Spider Handling
Jumping spiders will often walk calmly across your hand when handled respectfully. Follow these tips for safe interaction:
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Let them walk onto you vs grabbing them. Or use a catch cup for transfer.
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Move slowly and calmly. Any quick movements may startle them.
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Limit handling sessions to 5-10 minutes max to avoid stress.
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Wash hands before and after. Avoid handling after applying lotions, perfumes, etc.
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Supervise closely. Jumping spiders move quickly and can bolt if spooked.
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Never handle a jumping spider during molting. This is highly stressful.
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If bitten, wash the area with soap and warm water. Seek medical care for severe reactions.
Jumping Spider Feeding
In the wild, jumping spiders prey on any small insects or invertebrates they can overpower. In captivity, provide a varied diet:
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Spiderlings: Feed pinhead crickets, fruit flies, bean beetles, etc. Offer food daily.
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Juveniles/Adults: Feed full-sized crickets, roaches, moths, small mealworms. Offer food 2-3 times per week.
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Gut load feeder insects with nutritious foods to boost nutrition.
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Always monitor while feeding. Remove uneaten prey within 1-2 hours.
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Avoid overfeeding. Obesity can reduce mobility and health.
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Provide water via light misting 1-2 times per week. Avoid wet substrate.
Jumping Spider Health
Overall, jumping spiders are quite hardy when cared for properly. Here are some common health issues:
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Dehydration: Seen as lethargy and shriveled abdomen. Fix by lightly misting the enclosure more frequently.
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Molting issues: Improper shedding can be fatal. Maintain ideal humidity and limit handling around molts.
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Parasites: Rare but possible. Seen as lethargy, poor appetite. Have a vet inspect fecal samples.
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Trauma: Leg or other injuries usually from falls. Ensure proper climbing furnishings. Handle gently.
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Obesity: Carry less fat, shorten lifespan. Adjust feeding and avoid overfeeding.
With attentive care, handling, feeding, and housing, jumping spiders make fascinating pets full of activity and personality. Their specialized needs are easily met when following the recommendations above. Do your research to pick the jumping spider species that best fits your lifestyle. With their charming antics and minimal care requirements, you’re sure to enjoy these tiny acrobats.
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- The little enclosure you bring your new spider home in is not intended to be their forever home. Regal jumping spiders can get quite large and the right size enclosure is important for their wellbeing.
- We recommend a final enclosure size of at least 4x4x8”. Taller is better because they are arboreal (live in trees) Smaller enclosures are perfect for juveniles and subadults.
- Enclosures that are too large can make it difficult for your spider to find food and to maintain humidity.
- It is NOT recommended to put a sling(baby spider) into a larger enclosure right away.
- Bottom or front opening are best because your spider will usually build their hammock at the top of the enclosure.
- It’s best not to disturb their hammocks. That is where they sleep and molt.
- Cross ventilation is very important to prevent mold growth in the enclosure.
- While Jumping Spiders don’t require specific UV lighting, they do best in bright lighting on a normal daytime schedule.
- Placing them in a bright room or adding an LED light to keep their area well lit will keep them happy.
- Regal Jumping Spiders are native to Florida. That means they prefer warmer environments. Temperatures of 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit is preferred.
- If your spider is not very active, try placing them in a brighter/warmer room.
- Heat lamps are not recommended.
- Clean out dead bugs, excess webbing and waste as needed.
- It is best not to remove their hammocks as that is their safe spot and where they molt.
- As your spider ages, the excess webbing does help them maintain grip to the sides of the enclosure. (they will lose their grip as they age)
- Refer back to the feeding guide .
- Feed based on your spider’s abdomen.(usually every 3 days for younger spiders, older spiders can go for a weem or more without needing to eat.)
- Larger spiders can eat small dubia roaches, small crickets, small mealworms, bottle fly larvae/flies and most feeder insects.
- Small spiders and slings will generally be able to consume pinhead crickets, mini mealworms, xsmall dubia and fruit flies(hydei if older sling)
- Some spiders can go weeks without eating, especially if they are molting. If their abdomen is not small, they should be fine.
- Remove crickets and mealworms if not consumed as they can harm your spider and chew through mesh vents.
- If you have difficulty finding feeder insects, PLEASE REACH OUT!
WE LOVE TO REFER TO THIS FEEDING GUIDE CREATED BY RUE MORGAN
Humidity and hydration:
- It is important to provide your spiders with humidity. This is done by misting a bare side of their enclosure once daily. When your spider is molting or if your home is particularly dry you should mist twice daily. They will also drink from the mist.
- Use a fine mist spray bottle to prevent drowning in large droplets.
- Some owners will also provide a dish with water crystals, but do not just place a dish of water.
- Do not place a dish of water in their enclosure, your spider may drown in it.
Molting:
- Jumping Spiders molt until they are full grown. Many will molt 9+ times before they are adults.
- If your spider has created a thick hammock it is likely preparing to molt.
- LEAVE YOUR SPIDER ALONE. Do not try to force your spider out of their hammock or put food inside. Continue to mist their enclosure(increasing to twice daily) This process can sometimes take weeks.
- When your spider has completed it’s molt it will take a day or 2 for their exoskeleton to harden. Give them a day or so before attempting to feed.
- Molting is a big job, and unfortunately some spiders do not survive the process. You can give your spider the best chance by keeping the humidity up with misting and leaving them alone to do their thing.
LifeSpan:
- Jumping spiders are only with us for a short time.
- Males usually live about a year after their final molt and females about 1.5 – 2 years.
Female reproduction:
- Once they reach adulthood, female spiders will likely lay eggs. This is natural and will happen without mating.
- Your female spider has been raised in captivity, therefore any eggs laid will be infertile.
- Your spider may sit with her eggs for a couple weeks.
- During this time she may not eat or come out. Continue to mist her enclosure and offer food if she comes out.
- Eventually she will leave the eggs or eat them.
- She may lay 3 or more clutches of eggs in her life.
Safety:
QUESTIONS: ALWAYS feel free to reach out to us with questions and concerns. We love our spiders and want them to have the best possible life with you. We love photo updates! Email:
[email protected] Text: 301-991-9809 Facebook or Instagram
How to Care for Jumping Spiders!
FAQ
How to take care of a jumping spider as a pet?
- Size and Type: Choose a tall, wide terrarium with good ventilation, allowing for climbing and hiding.
- Decor: Include fake plants, small aquarium props, and fairy garden items for climbing and exploration.
- Ventilation: Ensure the lid is ventilated to prevent stagnant air.
- Substrate: Use a natural substrate like coconut fiber or soil, but avoid anything that could be ingested.
- Water Source: Provide a shallow water dish with gravel or scoria to prevent drowning.
Are jumping spiders difficult to care for?
For one, jumping spiders are relatively easy to care for, making them a perfect pet for both beginners and those with a busy lifestyle. They don’t need the constant attention that cats or dogs require, yet they still provide interaction and amusement.
Is it OK to keep a wild jumping spider as a pet?
Jumping spiders make great pets, but like any animal, require proper care and attention. With their large curious eyes, small fuzzy faces, and playful personalities, they’re more endearing than intimidating. These adorable traits make them perfect for easing fears and fostering a deeper appreciation for spiders.
What not to do with jumping spiders?
Most jumping spiders are better off not being held and are happy just staring at you from the inside of their cage. When handling them you should make sure you wash your hands before and after you handle them (Wash with plain water. Soap could be too strong and hurt them) and dry your hands well.